Rosebay Willowherb extract

Description

Rosebay Willowherb Extract

Rosebay Willowherb extract, derived primarily from Epilobium angustifolium (also known as fireweed or Canadian willowherb), is gaining significant attention in modern dermocosmetic formulations due to its multifunctional bioactivity profile. Rich in polyphenols, flavonoids, ellagitannins, and phenolic acids, this botanical extract offers anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, antimicrobial, and sebum-regulating properties suitable for sensitive, oily, and environmentally stressed skin.

The principal phytochemical constituents include oenothein B, quercetin derivatives, gallic acid, ellagic acid, and various tannins. These compounds contribute to the extract’s strong free-radical scavenging capacity and skin-calming effects. Studies have demonstrated that Epilobium angustifolium extracts exhibit substantial antioxidant activity, with notable inhibition of oxidative pathways associated with premature skin ageing. Additionally, inhibition of collagenase and elastase enzymes suggests potential utility in anti-ageing formulations targeting loss of elasticity and dermal matrix degradation.

BENEFITS

• Normalizes excess sebum production of oily scalp for healthy-looking scalp and hair
• Reduces adherent and non-adherent dandruff flakes from the first use!
• Soothes scalp irritation

A particularly valuable cosmetic attribute of Rosebay Willowherb extract is its sebum-modulating activity. Polyphenolic compounds, especially oenothein B, are associated with inhibition of 5α-reductase activity, thereby helping reduce excess sebum production and visible skin shine. This makes the extract highly suitable for formulations designed for oily, acne-prone, and combination skin types.

The extract is commonly incorporated into clarifying serums, balancing toners, scalp treatments, and mattifying emulsions, Moisturisers, Active mists, Cleansers, Night creams/ Day creams, Facial Oils, Scrubs, Masks.

TYPICAL MODE OF ACTION (MECHANISM)

• Decreases sebum production:  5α- reductase activity, lipid synthesis
• Modulates immuno-inflammatory defense system: TLR2, hBD2, hBD3, IL-8
• Reinforces stratum corneum: involucrin

From a formulation perspective, Rosebay Willowherb extract demonstrates good compatibility with water-based systems, hydrogels, emulsions, and surfactant-based cleansing products.

Typical use levels range from 0.1–2.0%, depending on extract concentration and carrier system.

It performs synergistically with Niacinamide, Zinc PCA, Panthenol, allantoin, and low molecular weight hyaluronic acid in barrier-support and anti-blemish systems.

The extract also exhibits anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial activity relevant to compromised or irritated skin. Research indicates inhibitory effects against inflammatory mediators and certain bacterial strains associated with skin imbalance. This supports its inclusion in post-procedure care, after-sun products, scalp treatments, and formulations targeting redness or urban pollution stress.

Technical data

CAS Number:  7732-18-5 ; 90028-31-2 ; 56-81-5
EC           200-289-5, 289-821-5
INCI:  Aqua, Glycerin, Epilobium Angustifolium Extract
Composition:  Water, glycerin, Epilobium Angustifolium Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract
Extract concentration: 1:2
Use Level: 0.1-2.0%

Info source References

• Nowak A. et al. Epilobium angustifolium L. Extracts as Valuable Ingredients in Cosmetic and Dermatological Products, Molecules, 2021.
• Dreger M. et al. Antibacterial and Antimycotic Activity of Epilobium angustifolium Extracts, Pharmaceuticals, 2023.
• Assessment of the Anti-Inflammatory, Antibacterial and Anti-Aging Properties of Hydrogels Containing Epilobium angustifolium Extracts.
• Exploring the Phytochemical Profile and Biological Insights of Epilobium angustifolium L. Herb.
• Cosmetic ingredient references for Epilobium angustifolium and Epilobium fleischeri extracts.